jbg:
another long day. georgia, alabama, mississippi, and louisiana in just 9 hours. holy shit!
we were barely in georgia this morning, hitting the road at 9:30am and rocketing right into alabama. brian is having a hell of a hard time maintaining his goal of buying a souvenir shotglass in every state — and i gave up on my similar idea of postcard-collecting a few days ago. some of these rest stops just aren’t very well stocked with such goods. corn nuts, yes. casino gambling, sure. miniature confederate flags, you bet. shotglasses and postcards? surprisingly lacking.
a little after noon, we decided to “get lost” in greenville, alabama and find a local lunch spot. we’re frankly tired of subways and other chains. so we found the “historic” downtown greenville (all 2 blocks of it) and had a delightful lunch at “the chef’s table,” a cute little buffet-style spot run by a slew of lil’ old ladies who were jus’ darlin’, and chided brian for not eating enough. your humble narrator, however, gorged himself on the fish sandwich, cornbread and fried okra.
there were a few dodgy gas stations and rest stops on the way — including RJ’s barbecue exxon, where you can get 2 bbq sandwiches for $6, and the aforementioned confederate flag mementos.
then the exciting part. we convinced mandy, our lovely little GPS helper, to take us the long way into n’orleans — via the lake pontchartrain causeway. it consists of two parallel bridges that, together, make up the longest bridge in the world (in total length). it was quite lovely and extremely bumpy. we were on it for 20-25 minutes to get to jefferson parish. you know, where all that shit went down.
and then — n’orleans! we valet parked in the french quarter and wandered around until we found a menu good for both of us (brian doesn’t like spicy food or fish. why exactly am i friends with him?) we settled on la bayou restaurant (la has an accent of some sort over it) and it was rad. first of all, they recommended an albida amber ale (albida’s a local brewery) and delivered it in a giant 22-oz plastic cup. then, we were offered an albida summer wheat — which may be (actually, IS) even better than a sam summer.
for dinner? brian went with a filet mignon (”good, but spicy” — how are those two adjectives distinct?!) and me — i went with the special, which was an incredible pesto with gulf shrimp, crab meat, and crawfish. holy crap, it was incredible. and for dessert? why, the pecan pie with vanilla bean ice cream, of course! at this point, i was drunk and taking photos of the food because, well, how else would i remember it? the waitstaff was baffled. one waitress stood behind me quizzically. the bartender came over and said: “man, that pie looks so good, i’ma gonna take a pitcher of it — oh wait, you already did!” we all had a laugh. then i ate delicious, delicious pie.
next, a lovely drive over more bridges and marshland to get to baton rouge, where we now lay our weary heads. but only for a few minutes, because the second half of lakers-spurs is starting up soon, and there’s a bar named corky’s just a couple of yards away!
CDs logged: out of time, accelerate (2 albums by rem); the stage names (okkervil river); highway 61 revisited (bob dylan); state songs (john linnell); 12 golden country greats (ween); blood on the tracks (bob dylan); ghost colors (cut copy).